Montenegro Itinerary: 8 days from Mountain to Coast
Montenegro is a tiny yet mighty country. With gorgeous mountain ranges to stunning beaches, 8 days is all you need for a Montenegro Itinerary to see and do everything.
Wilhelm and I, along with his parents, had a fantastic time in Montenegro on this itinerary. Tourism is quite well-developed and there are plenty of hotels, restaurants, and sites around the country.
This Montenegro Itinerary will take you from the capital of Podgorica to the dramatic mountains of Durmitor and then to the Bay of Kotor, with must-visit stops along the way.
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A note: This itinerary easily continues from my Albania Itinerary. If you’re adventuring in Albania, you’ll end up in Theth, a village in the Accursed Mountains. From Theth, it’s easy to get to the capital of Montenegro, Podgorica with a private van transfer likely to be organized with your hotel for around 200 euros. However, you can also fly into Podgorica and get your Montenegro Itinerary started!
Should I rent a car?
As we didn’t rent a car, this guide will assume you need transport and I’ve provided some recommendations based on what we did.
That said, many people rent cars in Montenegro. Although I’m a confident driver and drove a bit in both neighboring countries of Croatia and Albania, Montenegro is so mountainous that I would have had too much anxiety to drive. As our Montenegrin taxi driver said about driving here: “Montenegro big crazy. Catastrophe.” Literally. The mountain roads barely fit two cars and oftentimes, our driver would have to reverse a good 200 meters on the winding roads to help a truck get past. Not fun.
Here we are driving from Kotor to Tirana, Albania.
The ride from Podgorica to Zabjlak was fine as was the ride from Zabjlak to Kotor. However, I was happy I wasn’t driving.
The cost of the rental car may end up being cheaper than taking private transport as we did. There are buses and tours that can help reduce this cost for you.
The Ultimate Montenegro Itinerary
Day 1: Podgorica
Stay 1 night at Hotel Hemera
Morning
Getting to Montenegro
We started our trip in Theth, Albania, and therefore took a private car transfer for 200 euros from the mountain town of Theth to Podgorica. The border crossing was very easy—just remember to keep your passport with you rather than in the trunk of the car. If you do this, be warned that this was literally the most car-sick-inducing car ride of my life. I kept it together but omg. It was a rough time for me. There are soooo many twists and turns on the mountain road out of Theth.
If you’re just going to Montenegro, then you can fly to Podgorica.
In Montenegro
Check into Hotel Hemera. We opted to stay here based on Lonely Planet’s advice stating that the bar looked like “something out of Harry Potter”. Though I could kinda see where that comment came from, it’s not really Hogwarts. That said, the rooms are amazing and we had a great view. The high ceilings, cool grey tones, and high-end amenities really were something special after our days in the mountain guesthouses of Albania. I recommend you stay here.
What I also loved about staying at Hotel Hemera was that it is on a pedestrian street that comes alive in the evenings. Your cab will have to drop you off at one of the ends of the pedestrian street and then you’ll have to walk 100 meters or so.
Afternoon
Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital, traces back to Roman times. Its architecture reflects its blend, from Ottoman mosques to modern structures. The city is skipped by most international visitors who tend to head straight for the beaches, but we found it well worth a day to walk around and explore. It has a friendly vibe enhanced by the beauty of the Moraca River and many nice restaurants and bars.
Have lunch at Lanterna. The vibe is nice and the raspberry juice is a must! We opted for pizza and pasta and honestly, it was just okay. I’m sure the traditional food is much better but after 10 days of Balkan food in Albania, we wanted something a little different.
Then, walk around Stara Varos, the old town, just nearby. We didn’t have a specific itinerary here and just wandered up and down the streets.
If you want to go on a tour, check out the Podgorica Free City Tour. We didn’t have time to go on this tour but I have always had a good experience with free walking tours throughout Europe.
Next, walk to the Old Ribnica River Bridge by the Moraca River and cross the river over the Blazo Jovanovic Bridge.
Between the Blazo Jovanovic Bridge and the Union Bridge, there is a bar that comes alive in the late afternoon. I wasn’t able to find a Google Maps location for it, but it should be around here (probably just in the summertime). People were also taking a dip into the river from the rocky beach by the bar.
Do you see the bar by the water?
After you cross the Blazo Jovanovic Bridge, there is a cool staircase perfect for pictures. If you continue left there is a small bar (in this park) that looks fun for a quick drink.
Continue on to visit the Orthodox Temple of Christ’s Resurrection. We actually came back in the evening to visit the church so feel free to do that too. It’s just a 15-minute walk once you cross the bridge.
Finally, visit the Podgorica Museum and Gallery. This art museum is free and open until 8pm every day except Monday. It will just take you an hour to walk through the temporary and permanent exhibits, which include a mix of modern art and historical artifacts.
Evening
Get dinner along the pedestrian street of Hotel Hemera. There are bars on bars on bars! I loved the evening pedestrian vibe here. If you want something cheap, filling, and easy, stop at the pizza and sandwich shop. I got a veg sandwich for just 2.5 euros! We also walked through the park and came across a live violin performance; it was magical.
Day 2: Ostrog Monastery and onward to Niksic
Spend one night at Hotel Yugoslavia
Morning
Ask Hotel Hemera to organize a taxi to take you to Ostrog Monastery or plan to take the train.
Breakfast is included at Hotel Hemera and you will pick from the regular menu. Juice, a cup of coffee, and one meal are included in your hotel rate. I got the eggs benedict, which was perfectly filling considering our next meal wasn’t until 4pm. Be aware that the hollandaise sauce is literally mayonnaise—I wish I got that on the side since it was a lot.
Walk around town to get a vibe of the city.
Afternoon
Ostrog Monastery deserves its own blog post so check it to see how to visit. It’s a gorgeous monastery carved into the rocks seemingly out of magic. You can easily visit the monastery in 2 hours depending on how fast you hike and where you start. Additionally, you should plan to wear long pants or a skirt/dress when visiting the monastery.
The Ostrog Train Station is on the Podgorica and Niksic train line, so it is possible to arrive (or leave) by train from/to either city. I wouldn’t count on taxis at the Ostrog station. There was just one taxi hoping for a customer getting off the train from Podgorica when we took the train to Niksic. As such, if you do the train option, prepare to hike up to the monastery. It’s a serious climb that will likely take at least 1.5 hours.
Evening
Niksic is an industrial town, probably most famous for being home to the Nicksicko beer brewery, but it definitely has its charms. The city is filled with unique cafes and bars. Wilhelm says that Niksic has a “rough around the edges Yugoslavian charm!”
Check-in at Hotel Yugoslavia. There aren’t a ton of accommodation options in Niksic and you’re likely to be the only tourists around town. Hotel Yugoslavia is a simple and clean hotel, perfect for one night. The staff speak English and are very helpful! I liked our room, and it honestly had the best-smelling shower gel (that I took and carried around for the rest of our trip).
It’s also got a cinema attached to the hotel, so you can catch up on the latest movies if you need a break. I thought it was fun that there was Barbie and Oppenheimer playing!
Check out Piazza and sit at the back of the restaurant in this cool space for dinner. I got a black ink risotto (which was fine) but Wilhelm’s pasta was great!
Our favorite cafe/bar in Niksic was Propaganda Bar. It was so nice that we got a drink the evening after dinner and then came again for raspberry juice after breakfast the next day. I love the setting with the hanging umbrellas.
There are lots of interesting sites around town as you wander.
We had an after-dinner cake at Ginger Cakes on the square.
Day 3: Niksic to Zabljak for Durmitor National Park.
Spend 3 nights at Dandelion House
Morning
Organize your transportation to get to Zabljak, the base town of Durmitor National Park. Considering we were 4 people, it made sense to get a taxi rather than the bus since per person the cost was about the same. The meeting point for buses headed to Zabljak is by the Trg Slobode square. Ask your hotel to direct it to you; as we didn’t end up needing it, I’m sorry to say I don’t have the exact location for you.
We opted to leave around 11am and reached Zabljak around 2pm (including some taxi trouble…)
Breakfast at Hotel Yugoslavia was much better than I expected. My veggie omelet was giant!
Before you head out of Niksic, take a walk to visit the Orthodox temple of St. Basil of Ostrog (yes, the same St. Basil from the Ostrog Monetary).
Also, check out the Ramparts of Onogošt. Ramparts are defensive walls or fortifications built around a city, castle, or other strategic locations to provide protection against external threats such as enemy attacks. ( I had to look this up for myself, too). The exact origin of the city ramparts is unknown but it is assumed they are the remnants of a Roman military camp from the 4th century. The ramparts are not that well preserved but they provide a great view of the city and are used as an open-air theater.
And, we went back to Propoganda for coffee and juice before our taxi arrived!
Afternoon
The ride between Niksic and Zabljak is just about 1.5 hours long according to Google Maps when driving direct. A taxi should cost 80 euros.
Storytime: My sense of how long this ride should take is warped because our taxi couldn’t get past 40km/hour and just after 30 minutes, broke down on the side of the road. With the help of Google Translate, we were able to ask the taxi driver to call a colleague to take us onward. I think this is highly unusual as we took Tesla taxis and other great cars during our Montenegro trip. I’d budget around 2 hours to drive and about 2-3 hours for the bus. Ironically, we think we saw the bus we originally thought to take fly by on the highway while we were waiting for the new taxi…
Once you arrive at your accommodation, visit the local grocery store, Voli. It’s huge and will have everything you need if you have a self-catering lodge. Voli is open every day, except on Sunday.
For lunch, we went to Ukus Durmitora. It’s off the main strip of restaurants and activity, giving it more of a village feel than the vibrant mountain town Zabljak is!
Evening
We stayed at Dandelion House, a self-catering A-frame cottage. There are two bedrooms, a bathroom, and a kitchen. The wifi worked great and the entire place was very comfortable. It’s about 1.3km to the center of Zabljak, where the grocery store and restaurants are. The walk is pleasant though all uphill so think about this in case you plan to walk back and forth to town a lot.
While staying in Zabljak during our 3 days, we experienced some of the coolest weather in the midst of Europe’s July 2023 heat wave. It even rained a bit! The mountain weather can be unpredictable so be sure to bring a handy rain jacket with you.
Day 4: Ice Cave Hike in Durmitor National Park
Weather dependent, you may do a big hike today or tomorrow.
Durmitor National Park is a stunning park known for its diverse landscapes. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I just loved the towering mountains and icy feel of white rock as we climbed up and up (and up…) The park encompasses rugged mountains, pristine glacial lakes, and lush valleys, making it a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers.
There is so much to do in the park, whether you want to hike or just chill. The centerpiece of the park is Bobotov Kuk Peak, offering panoramic views. Upon entry, you’ll be greeted by the Black Lake, a popular spot for swimming. The park is also home to the Tara River Canyon, one of the deepest in Europe, where you can white water raft. You can also rent bikes from several locations in Zabljak.
This street has several mountain bike rentals and adventure huts where you can ask around. There are also electric bikes available for rent.
You’ll have to pay the entry fee each day you go into the park: 5 euros per person. Parking is 2 euros.
Morning + Afternoon
There are endless hikes in Durmitor National Park. If you’re up for a unique hike, then I suggest you do what we did and hike to the ice caves, known as “Ledena Pecina.” You can do this hike without a guide, just be prepared for a long day!
We hiked a total of 26km over the course of the day (though this included walking to/from Dandelion House and stopping for lunch in town). Technically, the hike is just under 14km if you start from the national park, though you’re likely going to walk into the park and back out to your accommodation as we did, so keep that in mind too when calculating distance.
Read up on how to do the ice cave/Ledena Pecina hike:
Evening
After the hike, either collapse back at your accommodation or have an early dinner. There are tons of cool-looking restaurants along this street when you exit the national park. After our hike, we had pizza at Kaćun Caffe. I clearly looked defeated by the time we made it to the restaurant and we were offered a free glass of the local juice to be able to try all the flavors.
The pizza was great and energized us for the 1.5km back to our accommodation. Other restaurants that were popular as we walked by were Restaurant Or’O and Zlatni Papagaj.
Day 5: Black Lake Hike and Swim
Morning
If you’ve got the motivation, you should try to get to Canyon Viewpoint, Curevac. You can hike all the way there or rent bikes to the trailhead. Unfortunately, my legs were so dead from hiking to the ice caves that I had no motivation to get here. I suggest you make the effort if you have the energy. Depending on where you start, the hike is around 8km one-way.
Otherwise, you can take a walk around Black Lake and go for a swim, as we did. The Black Lake hike has some light ups and downs. The views around the lake are lovely.
Take a dip whenever you find a spot that suits you!
As you exit the park, stop by the cute stalls selling berries, mushrooms, and souvenirs. We bought some glorious chantarelle mushrooms that we made into pasta at Dandelion House. The large pack of chanterelle mushrooms cost 18 euro but they were amazingggg. There are packs of dried mushrooms also for sale. Everything is cash only.
Afternoon
As you exit the park, have lunch at Hotel SOA. It’s one of the fancy places to eat in town. I read on another blog that this has the best food in the country—we had lunch here and it was good but I’m not sure I had the right dish to call it the best in the country. Though, the mixed mushroom risotto was good (though very salty). Find out for yourself!
Evening
Take a chill evening and make a simple pasta at your accommodation or head back out to explore Zabljak for your last night here.
Day 6: Zabljak to Kotor
Spend 2 nights at an Airbnb or hotel. I’m not recommending a specific one because there is a huge range of options. We stayed at Hotel Monte Cristo and had a nice experience though the rooms were right above a restaurant that played music until 11:30pm. If this bothers you, then stay outside the old town.
Morning
Organize transport from Zabljak to Kotor. I used Transfer Montenegro, which I used the previous year too. They are reliable and have good cars. From Zabljak to Kotor, the cost was 230 euros. As we were 4 people, cost-wise this worked out well for us to get picked and dropped at our accommodation. Contact Transfer Montenegro on WhatsApp at +382 69 089 500. For this service, I requested the ride 3 weeks in advance, though I’m sure you can request it sooner.
We opted to leave at 8am and I suggest you do the same, so you get time in Kotor!
Afternoon
Kotor is a charming coastal town in Montenegro, nestled between mountains on the Bay of Kotor. Its old town is like a maze of narrow streets and ancient buildings, perfect for a day or two of exploring. The town is famous for its medieval architecture and historic city walls that offer great views. It’s also a base to explore the nearby sea caves, beaches, and more.
Although we only spent 1 day in Kotor on this trip, I suggest 2 nights. I visited the year before too and feel like 2 days is best!
Many people like to use Kotor as a base to explore Montenegro and it’s possible to see and do a lot on day trips. Check out this day trip that will take you to Lovecen National Park and Budva’s Old Town. Or, go on an adventurous rafting trip at Tara River Canyon.
Read about everything to do in Kotor.
Evening
Around 5:30pm, hike up the Wall of Kotor for sunset views. Apparently, sunrise is even better but I’m not a morning person… If that’s your vibe, save this for tomorrow! Read about how to visit on the Kotor blog.
Get dinner at La Cathedral. They have the best pasta in town! Visit right after your hike because starting at 7:30, there is typically a line to eat here as there are just a few tables.
Day 7: Kotor
Morning
The best part about Kotor is just walking around the old town getting lost. Visit the beach, walk into the shops, and enjoy.
Afternoon
Go on a boat ride to Our Lady of the Rock and the blue caves. This is a highlight of Montenegro and the perfect way to spend the afternoon.
Evening
Get dinner at whatever restaurant catches your eye. I feel like a lot of the food is touristy/same-same-but-different. If you want a relaxed, jazz vibe, check out Jazz Club Evergreen for live music. This was right next to our hotel and seemed like an excellent way to spend the evening.
Day 8: Last Day!
You’ve got several options on what to do on your last day in Montenegro:
- Start to explore Croatia: Take a bus or private transfer to Dubrovnik and spend 10 days in Croatia. Beginning in Dubrovnik, work your way up to Zagreb and then fly out.
- Fly back home: There are taxi and bus services that will drive you to either Podgorica or Dubrovnik. Both airports are within 2 hours of Kotor and have international flights.
- Continue to Albania: If you’re following my Albania itinerary, then you still have 2 nights left in Tirana. We took a private transfer with Transfers Montenegro for 270 euros. The trip was 5 hours+ because traffic was insane out of Kotor. We had to walk almost 2km to our taxi because we were actually faster than the taxi.
Extend your Montenegro Itinerary
Budva Riviera
To continue in Montenegro, transfer to Budva. Budva’s beaches are a major draw, offering golden sands and clear waters for sunbathing and swimming. With a mix of history, entertainment, and relaxation, it’s a good place for you to extend your trip. You’ll probably run into a lot of tourists here as it’s popular!
Lake Skadar
Visit the largest natural lake in Southern Europe. It’s also on the border with Albania so you could use this as a place to cross the border. There are lots of activities to visit the lake as a day trip and go on a beautiful boat ride.
Ulcinj
Also by the Albanian border at Montenegro’s southern tip, Ulcinj was once the Adriatic Sea’s pirate capital. Today, Ulcinj is a unique Montenegrin town with a largely Muslim population. There are beautiful mosques and a seaside promenade.
Velika Plaza
Montenegro’s longest beach, at 12 km, is very shallow and known for kit-surfing.
Mount Lovcen National Park
The views from the circular platform at the top of Mount Lovcen National Park are truly stunning and will have you looking down upon the Bay of Kotor and the surrounding cities along the bay.
That’s it, peeps! Make this Montenegro Itinerary your own by mixing and matching days and activities.