12-Day Djibouti Itinerary: An Otherworldly Adventure
Djibouti is one of the most underrated travel destinations in the world, and this 12-day Djibouti itinerary is designed to show you exactly why.
Do you actually need 12 days? Yes. This is a full-on adventure. The distances between sites are vast, and to truly experience the magic, otherworldliness, and “alien” vibe of the desert, this is the perfect amount of time. I’ve added suggestions on how you can cut it short at a few different parts of the trip though.
This guide is based on our own trip, with a few modifications based on what I wish I’d done differently. I absolutely loved our time here: it was rustic, packed with adventure, and a vacation unlike any other you will ever take. Djibouti is hot-hot-hot. We did this trip in December during the holidays around Christmastime. I suggest you do the same.
You’ll go from the bustling streets of Djibouti City to the surreal landscapes of Lake Abbe and Lake Assal, then head into the mountains to experience the country’s coldest area and ancient rock art. You’ll finish by heading down to the coast for some much-needed relaxation and a search for whale sharks.
This post is already so long that I opted to make several accompanying blog posts with details about the camps and activities we did; please click though to get all the info to help plan your trip. After reading the post, you can also check my Instagram stories to get more details and drama from our trip.
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12-Day Djibouti Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Djibouti City
Stay: Ras Dika (2 nights)
Arrival Logistics:
- You should have applied for your visa to Djibouti 1 month in advance online. You’ll need this for immigration.
- Arrange your airport transfer from Ras Dika (it’s cheaper then official taxi rate)
- At the airport, take out a bit of cash; there are plenty of ATMS around Ras Dika but the best is at the Kempinski.
Afternoon
Arrive and check in at Ras Dika to start off your Djibouti Itinerary. Read my review on why this is the best spot to stay in town.
After you freshen up, head out in the evening. The area around Ras Dika really comes alive after 5:00 p.m.
You can wander up and down the lively streets, check out the different shops, and see the cool bus station with Djibouti flags painted all over it. The hotel is also located right by the oldest mosque in Djibouti, which was built in the year 1000. The mosque is very cute and “chunky,” but the absolute best view of it is actually from the rooftop of Ras Dika.
Read all about what to do in town.
Evening
For dinner, head to Chez Youssouf (or another recommendation from my guide), a fantastic moukbasa restaurant that only serves that one dish. While everyone calls the whole meal “moukbasa,” that name actually refers to the side dish, which is a mixture of banana and bread. It’s the perfect accompaniment to the star dish: a fantastic spiced baked fish. It’s delicious and a total must-try.
Day 2: Whale Sharks (Maybe) or Wandering the City
Today you’ll need to be flexible. Go on a whale shark tour from town, do a day of city explorations, or start your 4-night tour of the country.
Option 1: The Whale Sharks
You really need some flexibility in your Djibouti itinerary if you want to see the whale sharks. It’s a 50/50 chance you’ll see them at best. This was the day we originally planned to head out on a tour but a massive rain storm the night before (which is wild considering it only rains about three times a year) meant our boat trip was canceled. We were unlucky to miss a chance at seeing the whale sharks, but lucky to witness a rare Djiboutian rainstorm.
If you are trying to see the whale sharks from the city, Dolphin Excursions is the way to go. Just remember they only operate if they have enough people, so WhatsApp them in advance. Otherwise, you might just start your 4-night adventure with Massigo Travel a day early.
Read about how to visit the whale sharks.
Option 2: Exploring Djibouti City
Since our boat was a no-go, we spent the day exploring Djibouti City. This city cultural and historical tour looks good too if you want to be shown around.
Start with a coffee at Sunshine Coffee; the owner is lovely, and a cup is only 250 DJF. The city isn’t huge, so you’ll inevitably find yourself walking the same streets a few times, but that’s part of the charm! (Check out my full Djibouti City Guide for the best spots).
We walked around some of the major sites like the People’s palace, the Kempinski (lol- to use the ATM), and just saw the city life.
Between 12:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m., the city pretty much shuts down and the heat kicks in, so we headed back to the hotel to chill for a bit.
Around sunset, walk over to the Beach Club (I believe it’s run by Ethiopians because they serve beer). The views are nice, and there’s some cool artwork on the walls to check out. We also went to see some souvenirs and I bought a few Yemini jewelry items and honey (check the Djibouti City post for all the locations).
Head over to Al Basha for dinner. Our waiter spoke great English, which was a nice bonus. We had moukbasa again, but it was a different vibe than the night before. This version came with a spicy green sauce and an onion-based sauce alongside the usual tomato. I also loved that they served the flatbread whole; it was so good.
Day 3: Lake Abbe Adventure
Stay: Lake Abbe Camp
Why You Need a Tour
The next four days of this Djibouti Itinerary are a total adventure, but they require serious logistics. We used Massigo Travel, managed by Musa. he’s a character, and you’re bound to have some funny experiences not just with him but also your driver and guide. Read about all Massigo Travel logistics and costs.
The reason you need a guide is simple: the distances are long, the driving is intense, and the “roads” often don’t even exist on a map. We went hours on the road without seeing another car, and there isn’t really anyone around to ask for directions if you get lost. Plus, managing your own food and water in the desert is a huge task. Renting a 4×4 is also quite expensive, so a guided tour just makes sense.
Morning
Your driver and translator/guide will pick you up from your hotel around 10:00 a.m. You’ll start the drive toward the Ethiopian border, stopping for a local lunch in a small town along the way.
Exploring Lake Abbe
Lake Abbe is one of the most famous sites in Djibouti, and for good reason. Before reaching the main vents, we stopped at a surprisingly lush green area that felt like an oasis. You can also do Lake Assal as a day trip from Djibouti City. We saw a fox, wart hogs, and even ducks!
The landscape here is surreal! it’s a sulfur lake filled with limestone “chimneys” that look like something out of The Little Mermaid. It’s said this whole area was underwater just a few hundred years ago, and it really feels like you’re walking through an ancient, dried-up seabed. If you look at the ground, you’ll see it’s still covered in tiny shells.
Read all abut the adventure to Lake Abbe and checkout all the amazing pictures of this unique landscape.
Evening
When you arrive at the camp, you’ll choose your accommodation: a traditional hut or a tent. Read my full review of the camp here to know what to expect.
Around 5:00 p.m., tea is served, followed by a sunset walk. This was a highlight for us, we were lucky enough to see a massive flock of flamingos out on the water. After dinner, head to bed early. You’ll be up before dawn for the sunrise, so this is the perfect time to pull out your Kindle and unwind in the quiet of the desert.
Day 4: Lake Abbe sunrise, Lake Assal floating, and Ardoukoba Volcano vibes
Stay: Lake Ghoubet Camp
Morning
Wake up around 5:30 a.m. for a 5:45 a.m. departure. Your driver will take you right into the heart of the formations for sunrise.
Watching the sun come up over the limestone chimneys and hot springs is a core Djibouti Itinerary memory!
Afterward, head back to camp for breakfast.
We packed up and started the long drive toward Lake Assal. The drive itself is fascinating. You’ll see so many interesting sites and learn a lot about the Afar culture along the way.
The Afar people are nomadic and many of their housing structures look like they will fall apart any second, but that’s so they they can easily move whenever water runs out for their goats.
Afternoon
You’ll stop for lunch (chicken sandwich) between the two lakes. Our stop had a cute cat!
As we drove towards Lake Assal we got an amazing view of Lake Ghoubet.
Lake Assal
Lake Assal has ten times the salt concentration of the Dead Sea, and it is a surreal place to visit as part of you Djibouti Itinerary. It’s incredibly warm too.
There’s no real “beach,” nor are there any tourist facilities around, so I recommend wearing your swimsuit under your clothes when you leave Lake Abbe Camp.
We swam in one area, but I noticed a spot just a few meters around the bend that looked much more scenic than the water we were in. However, our guide said that he took us to a more private area so people wouldn’t bother us. We only spent around 5 minutes in the water; and there was no one around anyway.
You’ll need to bring your own fresh water to rinse off immediately after, or your skin will feel like it’s caked in crust. Our guide forgot the rinse water, so we had to use our drinking water!
Tip: Do not shave for at least three days before getting in. It will burn like crazy in this water.
The Salt Market
After your swim, head to the main site for photos. You’ll see skulls and various items that locals have submerged in the lake; after five days, they become completely crystallized in salt. They also sell bags of salt, but they were a bit too large and heavy (5,000 DJF) for me to carry around for the rest of the trip.
Belvedere Viewpoint
Next, stop at the Belvedere Viewpoint for an incredible look at the canyon. There are small crafts for sale here, and it’s nice to see the local innovation.
Ardoukoba Volcano
From there, you’ll drive to Ardoukoba Volcano. While there isn’t a “crater” to look into, the landscape is covered in black lava formations and hollow caves created during the last eruption.
It feels like walking on another planet!
Evening
Finally, you’ll head to Lake Ghoubet Camp to settle in. This camp is beautiful, though it can get incredibly windy! The sunset is spectacular.
Day 5: Whale Sharks & Day Forest
Stay: Day Forest Camp
Morning + Afternoon
Today you’ll attempt to see the whale sharks. Whale Sharks are found in Djibouti November–February and are in “Lake Ghoubet,” which is actually a bay. However, they are really hard to spot!
Read all about the whale shark tour, how much it costs, and what to pack.
Spoiler alert: we spent 8 hours on the water and didn’t see them
If you managed to see them on Day 2 of this Djibouti Itinerary, skip this and head to Day Forest in the morning. Or request a boat trip for a little excursion around the bay and a bit of snorkeling.
Evening
After the whale shark tour, you’ll be driven to Day Forest. it’s the coldest place in Djibouti! Read all about the camp and what you need to bring.
And the ride there is beautiful.
Day 6: Historic Rock Art
Stay: Day Forest Camp or Randa
Morning
After breakfast, you’ll drive to see the Abourma rock art site. It’s a bumpy 2-hour drive one way, and you’ll need about 3 hours for hiking and exploring. Bring backup snacks just in case.
The rock art is totally worth seeing even with the long car ride! Don’t miss this unique part of your Djibouti Itinerary.
Read all about visiting Abourma rock art site.
Evening
We spent the night at Day Forest again, but I would instead ask your guide if you can stay in the mountain town of Randa. We drove by Hôtel Leele the next day and it looked really nice!
Day 7: End of Tour + Coastal Reset
Stay: Loubatanleh Hôtel
Morning
You’ll start the journey down from the mountains (either from Day Forest or Randa) toward the city of Tadjoura.
Driving to Randa
The town was really lovely, and it was a great spot for one last coffee tea before heading to the coast.
Since we stayed at Day Forest, we had a brief stop in Randa to visit our driver’s family. Although he invited us, we made sure to include expected food costs in his tip.
Wilhelm and I played dominos with our guide.
The food was delicious and I especially loved the rice.
On the way to Tadjoura we saw baboons on the road!
Afternoon + Evening
Ask your driver to drop you off at Loubatanleh Hôtel. This is a chic hotel right on the water and it is exactly what you need at this point in the Djibouti Itinerary. It was such a luxury to finally have a proper toilet and a hot shower! Spend the rest of the day relaxing by the sea and resetting for the next leg of the adventure.
Day 8: Ras Bir Camp
Stay: Ras Bir Camp
You have a couple of options for how to continue your Djibouti itinerary from here.
- Option 1: Head back to Tadjoura city and take the boat to Djibouti City for a flight out on Day 9.
- Option 2: Spend another relaxing, low-key night at Loubatanleh Hôtel.
- Option 3 (My Recommendation): More adventure! Head north to Ras Bir. I suggest organizing the next few nights with Abdou from the Ras Bir camp.
Morning
Spend your morning enjoying the water right at the hotel. The snorkeling here is great and it’s a nice way to ease into the day. Try to spot the shy sea turtles!
Afternoon
Then, check out of the hotel and head to Ras Bir.
We managed to get to Ras Bir in a very adventurous way involving a free ride to Tadjoura, a random driver we negotiated with on the Tadjoura corniche, and then a second driver from Obock to the camp. We were trying to see if doing it ourselves for fun!
Exploring Tadjoura before our ride
If that doesn’t interest you just ask Abdou (the manager from Ras Bir) to arrange your transport. He is very responsive on Whatsapp (use google translate from French) at +25377837549.
Evening
Arrive at the camp in time for sunset. The views here are arguably the best in the entire country, and the hospitality is next level. We were served fantastic food, including fresh clams from Obock.
Note: Abdou, the camp owner, is amazing. We actually spent two nights at Loubatanleh and only one at Ras Bir, but looking back, I wish we had done it the other way around. I’ve amended this itinerary to include two nights here because it’s just that special.
Day 9: Beach Day + Lighthouse Walk
Stay: Ras Bir Camp
Morning
Wake up and have a chill morning, but make sure you’re hungry; Abdou will likely serve you a full fried fish for breakfast. This was my favorite breakfast (and overall best meals) is the entire country. We were also served a local shiro dish with fish and traditional afar bread. Amazing.
After you’ve recovered from breakfast, head out for a walk to the Ras Bir Lighthouse. It looks a lot closer than it actually is, so don’t be fooled. It’s about 4 km away and takes roughly an hour each way. You don’t really need a map for this one; just walk straight to the lighthouse in your sights. and follow the tracks toward it.
The ground along the way is fascinating; the sand is covered in shells, making it feel like you’re walking directly on an ancient seabed. Keep an eye out for local goats and camels wandering the area!
Afternoon
Once the heat of the day kicks in, it’s time to hit the water back at camp. There is a small reef right around the camp where you can swim and snorkel. If you’re feeling more ambitious, Abdou can arrange for a fisherman to take you out to larger reefs about 15 minutes away, but we opted to just take it easy and chill around the camp.
For lunch, we were served another two fish!
Evening
Enjoy sunset and dinner.
Day 10: Mangrove Trip
Stay: Le Golf Hotel
Ask Abdou to organize a trip to the Mangrove de Godoria. We didn’t do this (and didn’t even know about it until Abdou suggested it if we had more time), but it looks great.
Travel back to Tadjoura and check into a simple hotel like Le Golf Hotel for just 11,000 DJF. We didn’t book in advance and just rocked up. Next to it is Le Corto Maltese, another option recommended to us. And, a fancy stay is Gadileh Resort.
Walk around the town at night. Along the corniche and side streets, you’ll find small markets selling clothes and flip-flops.
We skipped eating out and just had a simple pasta at the hotel. After a week of heavy meals, it was needed. You can also get a beer here too!
Day 11: Ferry Back to Djibouti City
Stay: Ras Dika Hotel
Have the simple breakfast at Le Golf. Don’t bother ordering any eggs because it takes way too long. I had to cancel my order. The staff were a little wild in my opinion too; like they didn’t care. It was cheap and clean with wifi. That’s all that matter at this stage.
You may see the ostrich that lives here! What an unexpected sight.
Take a tuk-tuk for around 300 DJF from Le Golf to the Corniche. You’ll see the ticket office here; look for the white walls with red gates. The office opens in the morning before the boat arrives, and tickets are 1,100 DJF per person. We got there at 9:00 a.m.
While we waited, we grabbed some street food (shiro and bread) and coffee. The locals seemed really amused to see us diving into the local street food!
The boat officially requires you to board an hour before departure, but we were actually able to get on as early as 10:00 a.m.
The boat got pretty full by the time we finally pulled away at 12:00 p.m. We chose to sit outside to catch the breeze, but there is an air-conditioned section inside if you need to escape the heat. The ferry typically runs Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday but you should check with locals a day or two in advance to ensure it’s actually running. Check the typical schedule.
The ferry is doesn’t run mid-July to the end of August due to rough seas.
Afternoon
We arrived back in Djibouti City around 1:30 p.m., and watched the chaotic and colorful scene of cars, goats, and people all departing the ferry at once.
Some nice murals around the dock, too
After checking back into Ras Dika, we headed to Villa Camille. It is such a beautiful, peaceful spot; we just hung out there for the afternoon with our books and used the internet to catch up on things. I really enjoyed the spinach quiche and (sorry, Djibouti coffee) the best coffee I had all week. (Check our the post on what to do in Djibouti city for all the details).
Then, it was back to the hotel and we shared a simple egg wrap for dinner from the stall next to Ras Dika.
Day 12: Departure
The flight back to Addis Ababa is in the morning, so we just had breakfast and took an airport transfer. We spent 3 days in Addis after Djibouti, it’s a fun city adventure (with great food and coffee) to complement your trip. You can read all about what to do and how to plan an easy 3-day Addis itinerary.
Hope this Djibouti itinerary helps you plan the perfect adventure! And, check my Instagram stories to get more details and drama from our trip.