Hidden Lake Lodge in Gabon: Tsam Tsam
Tsam Tsam is popular among locals, ex-pats, and visitors alike. Just looking out across Lake Oguemoué, you can see why people come time and time again. The lake is peaceful and gorgeous. There is absolutely no cell phone reception and no power. You have no choice but to disconnect and enjoy nature.
Tsam Tsam has several covered tents on platforms and there are set activities that occur throughout the day that you can engage in. I suggest two nights for the perfect stay.
This post contains affiliate links.
About Tsam Tsam
Tsam Tsam is an initiative of OELO. The project started when (as shared on their website) “residents from the Lake Oguemoué community gathered to brainstorm ways to protect their lake and environment for future generations. OELO’s first project became an ecotourism site, Tsam Tsam, to create a source of revenue for local residents through protecting biodiversity while also generating income for OELO’s conservation projects.”
Some knowledge of French will serve you well at Tsam Tsam. Run by Gabonese-American couple Cyril and Heather, if you’re lucky Heather (from the US) will be there for the complicated translations. Otherwise, you should download the French dictionary in Google Translate so you can get the most out of the experience.
Tsam Tsam had experienced intense rains before our arrival and the lake was flooded. When we looked at pictures to book, it looked like Tsam Tsam had a little beach area where we could enter the lake for a swim and walk around. However, the entire area was flooded! At times it seemed like the water would come up on deck—it was a fun experience!
How and When to book Tsam Tsam
We came across Tsam Tsam both from searching “hotels” on Google Maps around Lambaréné and in the Bradt guidebook. I reached out to Tsam Tsam over Facebook. Co-owner, Heather, responded quickly and was helpful throughout our booking process. She also assisted in providing information on e-visas (basically that the system doesn’t work). Tsam Tsam was also able to create confirmation of lodging letters that we needed to give to the embassy for our visas.
According to our hosts, the best time to visit Tsam Tsam is in August when water levels are low. This means that it’s easier to spot hippos and forest elephants. However, we visited in December and still had an incredible stay.
Tsam Tsam costs 90,000 CFA per person for the first night and 70,000 CFA per person for the second, and additional nights. Kids under 12 are half-price. The rate includes all guiding, transport to and from Lambaréné, activities, 3 meals per day, and some drinks. We drank about 5 beers over the 2 days and they were included in our rate.
It was impossible for us to transfer money to Gabon for payment. Neither Wilhelm’s South African nor Swedish banks allowed transfers to Gabon. My US bank had a USD 1,000 minimum charge. Instead, we took out enough cash at the airport in Libreville to pay Tsam Tsam.
Getting to and from Tsam Tsam
You’ll need to get to the town of Lambaréné to reach Tsam Tsam’s boat transfer service. The ride will take around 4 hours on a not-so-great road from Libreville. We were surprised as the Bradt guidebook made it seem like the road was newly built—many parts seemed to be under construction so maybe one day it’ll be smooth sailing! Bradt says that the road is “lovely” and “paved.” I definitely wouldn’t call it lovely as it was mostly filled with construction and large vehicles carrying tree trunks for export.
You will either need to wake up super early in Libreville or spend the night in Lambaréné as the boat transfer from Lambaréné will be around 9:30am. We spent the night at the hostel at Hospital Albert Schweitzer. Read all about our one-night stay (with bed bugs).
Another option is Ogooue Palace. We visited for a drink and looks like they have decent facilities.
Private car
Tsam Tsam isn’t able to arrange transport, however, you can take a private transfer option (as we did) to get from Libreville to Lambaréné. We used 241 Tours which was recommended both by Tsam Tsam and the Bradt guidebook. However, you don’t need a 4×4 to get to Lambaréné. If you’re adventurous and don’t mind any a/c, you can take a taxi.
If you’re in a private transfer, ask your driver to stop at the equator!
For our one-way transfer, we paid €370.
Taxi
We took a taxi from this spot in Lambaréné back to Libreville. Ask the Tsam Tsam boat operator to drop you off here directly. There were several eager and willing taxis. If you want a whole taxi for yourself, be sure to say “une cours,” otherwise taxis will pick up people off your route. We opted for “une cours” but our taxi still stopped twice to pick up people directly on our route, which didn’t affect our timing at all.
For our one-way transfer, we paid €90.
A 2-night stay at Tsam Tsam
Tsam Tsam has 2- and 3-night itineraries that cover activities from hiking, boat rides, and village tours. You’ll get these itineraries from Tsam Tsam when you reach out to book.
We spent a lot of our day chatting and reading, so bring a kindle, your art supplies, or a deck of cards!
Day 1- Arrival, hikes, and lounging
Our boat arrived at 9:30am at the Hospital Albert Schweitzer dock to pick us up. We were communicated with via WhatsApp before arrival. The boat ride took around 2 hours. Along the way, the boat guide would point out animals (like storks!) and gave some info on the lake.
When we arrived at Lake Oguemoué, we were asked to put some of the lake water on our faces—as is done for people who are visiting the lake for the first time. Or at least that’s what my French picked up on.
After we reached Tsam Tsam we were offered some drinks and snacks and then we chose our tent. We opted for the tent across the communal center, where we had to be escorted in a little pirogue every time we wanted to go between our tent and the communal area because of the water level!
In the late afternoon, we went on a little hike to try to spot forest elephants. As the Lake Oguemoué area is forested, there are plenty of animals. However, as it is not a natural reserve or park, these animals are harder to spot, especially when the rainy season has just ended, which was when we visited. A couple of days before our arrival though, forest elephants were seen from the lodge. We were not so lucky, but that’s nature for you!
On our way back we had a gorgeous sunset after spotting some bats in a tree.
Day 2- Village tour
After breakfast, we went on a tour of the nearby village to learn about OELO’s sustainable fishing program and life in the village.
We met the village elder, the protector of the village’s masks, and got explanations from locals going about their daily tasks, like fixing boats with tree sap or drying “chocolate” seeds.
The tour also included a stop at the fish-smoking area. Here, we saw several different types of fish that are caught in the lake.
In the afternoon we went on another jungle walk. We saw evidence of pangolins, though not the animal itself. Other guests have seen the animal (as i saw from Tsam Tsam’s Facebook page!), it just depends on your luck!
There is a night boat safari option here but it was raining during this time and so we didn’t get to experience this.
The view from our tent while it rained.
Day 3- Back to Lambaréné
You’ll have a part of the morning at the lodge on your last day. You can go on a hike or just relax. Wilhelm was brave enough to take a dip in the lake. But with all the tree branches floating around he didn’t last long.
We were also taken in a traditional pirogue ride around the lake.
Around 12pm, the boat returned with the new guests for the evening and we were off to Lambaréné!
The Food at Tsam Tsam
All your meals and drinks are included in your rate. Meals are served buffet, family style with all guests eating together. The meals at Tsam Tsam are likely the most delicious and authentic Gabonese meals you’ll have in Gabon. I loved every single dish! Dinner is prepared by local women in the nearby village and brought by boat every evening.
The peanut chicken dish was my favorite dish along with the spinach-like greens and pumpkin-type dish. It’s always a mixture. You will have to let Tsam Tsam know if you have any allergies as this food is prepared back in the village.
For vegetarians, there were typically at least 2 veg dishes in addition to the classic plantains/potato/rice offerings. We always went back for seconds.
Lunch is yesterday’s dinner leftovers and breakfast is a mix of fresh fruit, avos, toast, and eggs.
The Cute Tent Cabins
I loved staying in the covered tents over the lake.
The tents were very comfortable and I loved waking up to the view of Lake Oguemoué. You don’t need to carry any bedding with you. Everything is fresh and clean. There were minimal bugs inside, as long the zipper was shut correctly. We had one, chill spider visitor our first evening.
The bathrooms are all pit latrines that are very well kept. Outdoor showers are used with rainwater buckets. I took a shower in the rain one afternoon since I was already wet.
Who can visit Tsam Tsam
Anyone! I absolutely loved our stay.. This trip was part of our honeymoon and so we felt it was a unique and romantic (for adventurous couples).
We were told that locals usually make return trips whenever they have friends and family visiting. Tsam Tsam is family friendly. There was a family with two young kids when we visited. Whether your kid is an introvert and just wants to read, or go off on an adventure in a pirogue (with a chaperone), it will be a memorable trip.
One afternoon we witnessed a storm brewing ahead of us!
What to Pack for your Visit
When you book, Tsam Tsam will send you a packing list depending on your length of stay. I’m suggesting some of our vital packing items for this trip:
- A huge power bank that lasted several cell phone, kindle, and headlamp charges. I recommend this power bank, which is the one I have. It’s a little heavy but it (so far) has lasted us several trips and even normal loadshedding in South Africa.
- SO MUCH BUG SPRAY. You need it. I’m serious. Malaria is present in Gabon and if you’re not careful you’ll be eaten alive by the bugs. They are silent and so itchy. Bring these wipes with you if you’re traveling with just hand luggage. Bring this spray if you have luggage… or stop at a pharmacy on your way to Lambaréné. You might as well bring after-bite cream with you since you’re gonna get bitten even with spray or wipes.
- Malaria pills; check with your doctor. Although we were told there are fewer instances of malaria than in the past year, it’s not totally eradicated in Gabon.
- Long pants (my fav pair) + long sleeves shirt (I prefer Marino Wool shirts, like this) for hiking in the forest.
- Closed shoes that are waterproof in case it’s raining a lot, like these.
- A rain jacket, like mine.
- Tevas or other water shoes like these. You need the extra straps to keep your foot from slipping around.
- Your own (preferably biodegradable) shampoo + toiletries
We hope you enjoy it as much as we did!