Biking Safari in Mlilwane
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5-Day eSwatini Itinerary

If you’re looking for empty parks, great food, and artsy places off the beaten track, Check out this 5-day eSwatini itinerary to get some ideas. This is the perfect self-driving itinerary, especially when coming from Johannesburg, South Africa. To do it all in 5 days, we focused on the western part of the country.

Often overshadowed by its neighbors, don’t miss the opportunity to visit this tiny but wonderful African kingdom when visiting South Africa. You can add a couple of days in eSwatini on a grand South Africa road trip as crossing the borders is relatively easy.  There are rolling hills, dramatic waterfalls, and plenty of adventure to be found.  

Before planning your trip, read up on eSwatini travel advice.  

eSwatini in 5 days

Five days in western eSwatini will give you just enough time to leisurely experience two parks and Mbabane, the capital city. However, there is so much more to do and you could add a couple of extra days to your eSwatini itinerary for more hiking and sites.

Day 1: Start in South Africa & head to Malolotja National Park 

Spend 2 nights at an Airbnb near Malolotja National Park

South Africa to eSwatini

You’re likely in South Africa before you head to eSwatini.  

Rent a car from your preferred rental company. You may want a vehicle with high clearance but a sedan will be okay if you drive slowly on unpaved roads. Even a cautious driver will hit the bottom of a sedan due to large potholes in Malolotja. If this worries you, rent an SUV. Popular SUV modules for rent are the Ford EcoSport, Toyota Rav4, and Haval H2. Make sure you get a letter from the rental company that allows you to take the car across the border. If you’re using your car, make sure you have the right documentation.  

Get groceries for your trip in town before you head out. This will make your rural stay much more pleasant and you won’t have to go out of the way to forage for food. Self-catering Airbnbs and lodging are common so opt for this.  

Drive to eSwatini through the Oshoek Border Post. This is one of the larger posts. You may spend 1-2 hours here depending on traffic.  

Ngwenya Glass 

The first top on your eSwatini itinerary is Ngwenya Glass, a well-known recycled glass factory right across the border. The company was started in 1979 by Swedish Aid (SIDA) as a development project. Swazis were trained in glass blowing (some even traveled to Sweden to learn the art there) and the factory was locally owned and operated between 1981 and 1985. After a 2-year hiatus, the factory was bought by South Africans who were collectors of the glass animals the factory produces. They’ve been operating the factory ever since! Read the full background here.  

Get to your Accommodation

Plan to spend 2 nights near Malolotja National Park.  You don’t have a lot of options for lodging here. You can choose to stay in Malolotja National Park where there are 10 self-catering cabins and a restaurant on-site. Or, you could also camp inside the park.

If that’s not your vibe, there are 3 Airbnbs nearby. The closest is Highveld Rural Charm, where we stayed. I highly recommend it! The host was very nice and took us on a walk when we arrived. We bought groceries over from Joburg with us and had a simple pasta dinner. You should check with the host if they can provide or suggest dinner if you’re not up for cooking yourself. There weren’t any restaurants around the town when we visited.

Gorgeous Cosmos in the field by the Airbnb and a funny rooster in the nearby tree.

Alternative: Many people visit the park as a day trip from the capital, Mbabane. If you’d rather do this and drive 30 minutes to Malolotja in the morning, stay in Mbabane. If so, there are plenty of hotel and Airbnb options there.

Day 2: Hike Malolotja 

Malolotja National Park 

Malolotja National Park boasts some of the very best highland reserves in southern Africa. It has 18,000ha of soft rolling hills, jagged mountains, forest gorges, and waterfalls. There are several trails and many connect with each other to make your own route. 

Plan to spend all day at the park and read up on the hikes.

The uphill hike to reach views of Malolotja Falls is worth it! And then connect to the Majolomba Gorge walk for a dip in the natural pools.  

What else can I explore?  

You can also do a canopy tour

Day 3: Head to Mlilwane with a Mbabane stopover 

Spend 2 nights at an Airbnb around Malkerns 

Today you’ll leave your accommodation in the early morning and drive 30 minutes from Malolotja to Mbabane, the capital of eSwatini. Then, you’ll make a couple of stops on your way to Malkerns where you’ll spend the night near Mlilwane National Park.

Mbabane in 3 hours

Read my quick guide on what to do in Mbabne in 3 hours, including breakfast, shopping, and an art gallery.

Stop: Yebo! Art & Design 

Drive to Yebo! on your way out of Mbabane. Yebo! is a contemporary art gallery and workspace for local artists. The gallery has beautiful etchings, prints on fabric, and paintings. 

Lunch at Mantenga Craft & Lifestyle Centre 

Then, drive on to the Mantenga Craft & Lifestyle Centre for lunch. It is a courtyard-style center with shops, restaurants, cafés, artwork… and a large, funky tree. You can pick up some groceries to make dinner with if you need them here (at Farm to Table).  

Malkerns Accommodation

Head to your accommodation in Malkerns to have a chill night. There are plenty of lodges and Airbnbs around the sanctuary and the surrounding towns. It just depends on how far you want to drive between places. We stayed at this airbnb in the area and loved it! There was an adorable cat and two cute dogs.

Instead of an Airbnb, you can choose to stay at Mlilwane’s Rest Camp inside the park. There are self-catering huts, cottages, and camping with a restaurant on-site.

If you’re still energized, head to Sambane Coffee Shop for a drink and check out the shops in the same complex. Swazi Candles,  Boabab Batik, and several other handicraft shops are here. You can save this for the next day though.  

Head out for dinner if you’re comfortable driving in the pitch dark. I don’t recommend it, but it’s possible. Otherwise, be glad you have a stovetop and make yourself some pasta. 

What else can I explore?  

Visit Sibebe Rock, Earth’s second-largest rock. 

Day 4: Biking in Mlilwane 

Today you’ll go biking in Mlilwane National Park! It’s a memorable experience.

Breakfast

Grab breakfast at one of the cute cafes. I recommend Vickery’s Café for an excellent (and filling) breakfast located in a garden shop. 

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary 

Head to Mlilwane after breakfast. Mlilwane means Little Fire in siSwati. Here, you can do a guided tour, self-guided walks, or jump onto one of the rental bikes. This is possible because there are no large, dangerous animals in Mlilwane (except some crocodiles that will likely leave you alone).

Rent a bike for 2 hours and follow your heart (or the animals) to create your own trail. You’ll see plenty of wildebeests, zebras, impalas, and warthogs on your ride. Stop at the hippo and crocodile park to spot the crocs. 

You can get lunch in Mlilwane at the Hippo Haunt Restaurant by the reception.  If that’s not for you, head to the Malandelas Complex. Get a drink and check out the local handicrafts.  Malandelas is host to the House on Fire art space and a “fantastical playground of imagination.” Walk around and explore.  

If you’re hungry after all the biking, get some lunch here. As I was warned before I visited, I will warn you: the food is nothing special. However, the atmosphere makes up for it and so we ate here anyway. Everything can be elevated with hot sauces and I believe French fries are their own food group.  

You can easily spend 2 hours here: getting food, drinks, checking out the shops, and wandering House on Fire. 

Or you can head to Sambane Coffee Shop  (again) for a drink and to check out the shops in the same complex if you didn’t do so yesterday.

Head back to your abode and chill. Make some dinner and hang out with a relaxing view.  

Day 5: Back to Joburg

Grab breakfast at Sambane Coffee Shop and then get back on the road to wherever you’re headed next!  

Leave early enough so that you drive in daylight to your next stop (or back home to Joburg as we did).

eSwatini Itinerary Additions

Add any of these adventures to your trip…and then let me know so I know where to go next! 

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MGB
MGB
3 years ago

I love your pictures!