My Hill Eco Lodge Musanze
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The Ultimate 10-Day Rwanda Itinerary

This ultimate Rwanda itinerary will have you exploring art in the city, jumping on the back of motorcycles, biking more than you thought physically possible with incredible views, seeing the funky Golden Monkeys and boat tripping through Lake Kivu. You’ll need 10 days to do the full Rwanda itinerary but it’s totally worth your vacation days.

Rwanda is known as Le Pays des Mille Collines (Land of a Thousand Hills). It is a beautiful and safe country to visit. From budget options to high-end luxury hotels, you can have it all here. We visited in July 2022 and this is our exact Rwanda Itinerary for our trip. I’ve added in tips and tricks for what we would have done differently and suggested the best tour guides we found.

Happy travels!

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Some Rwanda Itinerary Basics

Getting around

The best way to get around a city or town is by mototaxi. These motos cost around RWF 500- 2,000 each per trip, depending on how far you’ll be going. Drivers in Kigali have meters and you can ask them to use the meters to get the correct price. If you don’t have a local number, ask the driver if they can put in their own number because you’re a visitor. Gals, you may want to wear pants or long dresses to make it easier to get on and off the motorcycles.

Buses are frequent even on holidays, from our experience. We exclusively used the company RITCO because it has the biggest bus and seemed the most comfortable and it was always about to leave just as we arrived at a station. As with most of our African adventures, we usually just arrive at a bus station early in the morning and hop on whatever bus is leaving next. Sometimes you may have to wait for a bit, other times you may get lucky. We experienced most buses leaving on the hour or the half-hour.

City Names

Rwanda underwent a reclassification of city and region names. You’ll probably come up with both versions as you look at tickets or on Google Map. I’m using the name that was the most common based on our experience in this Rwanda itinerary. Fun fact: all cities, towns, and villages have a sign with the town’s motto as well as the “do’s and don’ts” of society.

Travel light

I highly suggest you travel with just a backpack to make the best use of your time and money in Rwanda. Moto taxis are the best way to get around, and you can’t carry more than a backpack on them. It’ll allow you a lot of flexibility with this Rwanda itinerary. As a serial over-packer, I have a hard time with this myself but every trip I try to cut down a little. Additionally, if you’re following my hotel recommendations, you’ll have laundry facilities included halfway through your journey in Musanze.

Here is my suggestion on what clothing pack:

  • Long hiking leggings (preferably the quick dry material)
  • 2 hiking/active shirts (preferably the quick dry material)
  • 2 lightweight pants (I brought one but I actually needed more pants than dresses because of all the motos)
  • 2 shirts
  • 1 dress
  • 1 lightweight jacket (only if you get cold like me, I brought a jeans jacket)
  • 1 lightweight rain jacket, collapsible
  • If you’re going to see the gorillas bring gators and hiking boots (as is recommended, but not necessary for the Golden Monkey)
  • Shoes: 1 pair of sandals and 1 pair of active shoes

Day 1: Kigali

Read up on my top things to do in Kigali post for more details about the activities in Kigali as well as day trips if you only have time for Kigali.

Morning

Check out the Rwanda guide for sim card and cash tips from the airport. Our taxi from the airport to our accommodation was RWF 25,000.

Head to your accommodation or just drop off your luggage. Get brunch at Now Now Rolex for a Ugandan classic egg wrap and then stop next door at Rubia Coffee. Splurge for a Chemex or pour-over coffee for a smooth taste of Rwandan coffee beans.

Afternoon

Visit Inema and NP Art Center. Located just 5 minutes away from each other, you can visit both art galleries in one go. Then, walk to this strip of shops by Azizi Life Studio with local goods, oils, and clothes.

Take a mototaxi to the Belgian Peacekeepers Memorial. This small, free exhibit will give you a background into the peacekeepers that were ambushed and killed in the very building you’ll visit. The exhibit gives a lot of important information about the genocide and the efforts of the peacekeepers in an easy-to-understand format.

Head back to your accommodation for a rest before dinner.

Evening

Make a reservation at least a week in advance for Meza Malonga (and note any dietary requirements). Curated by Chef Dieuveil Malonga, this restaurant serves an extraordinary 10-course dinner experience. Using flavors from across the continent, you are bound to try something you’ve never tasted before. Read my review here.

The tasting menu is RWF 80,000 (USD 80) per person, which is incredibly reasonable considering what you’re getting. It’s totally worth it. You can add on a wine pairing as well.

The restaurant operates like a test kitchen so menu items will rotate. Out of the 10 dishes, 1 was kinda like a bread course, 3 like appetizers, 3 like mains, and 2 were desserts. We also had a palate cleanser that made it into my top 5 dishes of the night as it introduced me to a new fruit: the tomato fruit. It is somewhat like a passionfruit with an earthy tomato aftertaste.

The restaurant opens at 7pm and as the dining experience takes 3 hours, so I suggest you make a reservation for 7pm.

Accommodation suggestions

There are plenty of options on where to stay in Kigali, so I won’t give out a full list in this Rwanda itinerary. From business to hidden gems, there is a lot to choose from. We stayed in this Airbnb and really enjoyed the stay. It was easy for motos to find because it is by a major road and the American Ambassador’s Residence. If you want to stay in the historic hotel where Tutsis and Hutus hid during the genocide, stay at Hotel des Mille Collines.

Day 2: Kigali

Morning

If traveling around yourself sounds a bit daunting to you, you can go on a tour with a guide who will organize your transfers and take you around the major sites.

Get breakfast at the Kigali Pottery Collections and do some ceramic shopping here. I wish we lived in Kigali just so that I could buy all the plates, bowls, vases, and cups in bulk.  For something different, try “African Coffee,” which is coffee, chocolate, and ginger mixed together. The French press is also excellent. I loved the Spanish omelet; the potatoes here are just so good.

Make sure you have enough luggage space to pack some of the pottery pieces (or plan to come back here on your last day in Rwanda (Day 10). Mugs go for RWF 5,000 but a large pot can cost around RWF 30,000.

Visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial afterward. The museum is free but there is an option for the RWF 15,000 audio guide. We didn’t use the guide, but I think it will make the experience more insightful. Most of the English and French text on the plaques is in a really small font and people are smushed against each other to read it. The memorial is still used by families today and you’ll probably come across fresh flowers and family members gathered on a weekend.

The memorial is open 8am-5pm (last entrance at 4pm) every day except Christmas and New Year.

Afternoon

Take a moto to Kigali City Market. This multistoried mall is interesting to walk through. Start at the top and then make your way down. From plumbing fixtures and coffee beans, to wedding dresses and a butchery, this mall has it all. There are some touristy shops as well. Just take a lap. Shops here are cash-only for the most part.

Make sure to make it all the way down to the ground level to get a look at the fish and produce section.

Outside the mall, stop at the shops along this street for souvenirs, art, and clothing. I liked this shop for the interesting baskets.

Then head to the flagship store of cool shoe brand Uzuriky and stop in Rwanda Clothing for African fabric clothing with a modern twist. Traveling from South Africa, we have similar brands but it’s nice to support local. Wilhelm bought a pair of sandals from Uzuriky.

Stop at Hôtel des Mille Collines to see the site of inspiration for the movie “Hotel Rwanda,” about a local manager, Paul Rusesabagina, who took over the hotel during the genocide when foreigners left. He helped to hide Tutsi and moderate Hutus on the premises.

Evening

Go to dinner at Repub Lounge or Green Corner.

Repub Lounge is a classic spot that serves delicious traditional Rwandan food that kinda caters to foreigners. The coconut fish curry was featured in the New York Times! I loved the eggplant stew. Try the local beers or get the honey + banana wine. There is also a small shop with baskets, clothes, and souvenirs. Look out on the staircase for lovely artwork pieces as well.

Or visit Green Corner for amazing fish and a truly local experience. Order the food immediately upon arrival—it’ll take some time to get made.

Stop at the Kigali Convention Center on the way back to your accommodation so you can see it all lit up! We had our moto drop us off here and after a walk around the park, we jumped on another moto to take us home.

Day 3: Kigali

Morning

If you’re following the full Rwanda Itinerary, you’ll be seeing the Golden Monkeys or gorillas the day after next, you’ll need to get your COVID PCR test today. Do this first thing in the morning. This RBC center is the only place you can get a PCR test for travel or tourist purposes. It may be that your hotel in Musanze may be able to organize a PCR test upon your arrival but double check with them. You’ll only need a Rapid test (done at pharmacies around town) but only this RBC center is authorized for PCR tests. If you go to another RBC center you’ll be turned away—we went to three other hospitals and RBC centers (wasting 3 hours of our day) before realizing this. They are open on Sunday even though google maps says it’s not.

Grab breakfast at Indabo Cafe. Come here in the morning for a peaceful vibe. You’ll be hidden inside a garden with several chatty birds. Get the veggie benedict, which is on a bed of potatoes. Also, check out the homeware shop on the property.

If you walk down here, you can see this cool building graffiti.

Afternoon

Visit Biryogo free zone for a car-free and alcohol-free afternoon experience in Kigali. Located in the Muslim area Nyamirambo, many of the restaurants aren’t on Google maps. Just plan to walk up and down and ask around for a menu of grills, fish, or rice pilau.

We stopped at Issa coffee for my new favorite drink: tree tomato juice.

Beyond Biryogo free zone, walk just a street away to KN 113 to visit an incredible street filled with murals and activities for kids. If you need a butterfly or angel wing picture, this is your spot. The graffiti looks very new here (in July 20220) and some things like the hopscotch paint was still wet!

Also, see the Onatracom Mosque while you’re here.

Have a light lunch at Al Mann Coffee House if you don’t find anything you like in Biryogo free zone.

Evening

Get dinner at Borneo, an Indonesian restaurant with incredible, authentic dishes. Indonesian food is quite hard to find around the world, but this spot is legit. The portions are huge! We even asked for our food to be packed securely and we took our leftovers on the plane with us back to Joburg.

Alternative Tip: If you have an evening flight from Kigali when you leave on Day 10, you should save Borneo for that evening, where they will easily call you a cab. Instead, do dinner the previous night (Day 2) at Green Corner and then go to Repub Lounge today (Day 3). 

This is the last day in Kigali for this Rwanda itinerary.

Day 4: Kigali to Musanze

Morning

Wake up early and get a moto to take the bus from Kigali to Musanze (aka Ruhengeri). The main bus stop for the city is called Nyabugogo Taxi Park. We used RITCO as it has the biggest and most comfortable bus we saw. The ticket was RWF 1930 per person, cash only. The bus ride takes about 2.5 hours, depending on if you get stuck behind trucks or not. You’ll be dropped off at the bus station here. This bus will likely continue onto Gisenye so make sure you get off.

Afternoon

Go on the village twin lake bike ride with lunch included with Lava Bike Tours. The experience is amazing and will take up the rest of your day. I barely made it back. Drop off your luggage at your accommodation and then head straight over to their offices. Get in touch with them beforehand to schedule your ride.

Accommodation suggestions

I personally was shocked at how many high-end hotels there are in Rwanda. Considering that visiting the gorillas is already an expensive endeavor, the hotels will cost you just as much or more. There are plenty of hotels in the area because of the high number of tourists that come to see the gorillas here. I’m just including the notable options.

Moderate—La Locanda— We had a great 2-night experience here. Veg breakfast and dinner are included as are alcohol and laundry. One night we had a loud guest on the other side of the wall but for the most part, it was a great time. Additionally, the staff is nice and will help organize your activities if you need them.

Luxury—Bisate Lodge— If we wanted to splurge we would have stayed here. It’s built like large bird nests in the forest and is just stunning.

Check out these other hotels for the best of the best: Singita Kwitonda Lodge, Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge (Governors’ Camp Collection), and One&Only Gorilla’s Nest.

Out of town—My Hill Ecolodge—This is one of the most beautiful lakeside lodges I’ve ever been to. We visited for lunch while on the Twin Lake bike ride. The lodge is the perfect place to hide away for a couple of days.

Day 5: Golden Monkeys or Gorillas

Morning

Today you’ll visit the Golden Monkeys or gorillas. Be sure to book far in advance. In fact, check the dates of the gorilla trek before you buy your plane ticket for this Rwanda itinerary. It will determine everything!

We personally didn’t feel like we had to see the gorillas. For a steep USD 1,500, it just didn’t seem worth it to us to include in our Rwanda itinerary. However, many people say it’s one of the greatest experiences of their lives. You should definitely do it if it’s on your bucket list. Instead, we opted for the charismatic and funky Golden Monkey trek. This only costs USD 100 per person.

Remember that you need a PCR test to see the primates.

Afternoon

You should be back at your accommodation around 11:30am, or 12:30pm at the latest.

Walk around Musanze and explore this lovely town. Check out my post on all there is to do in Musanze. You can get a second breakfast or lunch at MASHA (Musanze Arts Studio Hub Adventure), visit Inshuti Arts and Culture Center for a beer, or have a second or third cup of coffee at Crema.

Day 6: Musanze to Gisenyi, Lake Kivu

This is the start of your Lake Kivu adventure! The lake is huge and there are a lot of lake activities like fishing and boating. Most of the fishing is for touristy purposes on traditional boats. The popular sambaza (tiny, sardine-like fish) predominate in the lake here.

Gisenyi has a fun, party town reputation and is on the border with DRC. We wanted some hidden gem vibes and booked Paradise Malahide about 5km south. However, there was an issue with our reservation and instead, we were moved to their other property Kivu Paradise. More of a luxury-style lodge, the views of the lake were lovely.

Gisenyi is also the start of the Congo-Nile hiking/biking trail, not for the faint of heart. This insane trail will take you up and down mountains and along the coast. Biking the trail with a guide is the most common option, though there are also hiking options as well. I recommend it for the adventure seekers out there. It was really tough for me to do the trail (even though I only made about 7km of it mostly on the paved section).

Morning

Travel to Gisenyi by going to bus station in Musanze. We went straight to the RITCO counter and got a ticket for RWF 1300. The alternate name of Gisenyi is Rubav, so you might so that on the ticket.

If you’re hungry, have lunch at Migano Cafe (Rubavu) once you reach Gisenyi. I loved the tacos here.

Afternoon/Evening

If you plan to bike along the Congo Nile trail, rent a bike from Go Gisenyi Tours. For USD 60 per person, per day, you can self-bike around the towns. Or, you can start a guided biking adventure for 2 or more nights.

We rented bikes and biked down to Paradise Malahide and then Kivu Paradise.

In the evening, hang out at your accommodation. If you feel like heading back around Paradise Malahide, you can visit several cool bars. I suggest having drinks and dinner at Amaliza Lounge. It’s super classy and takes credit card (at least it did when we visited).

Accommodation in and around Gisenyi

Moderate—Paradise Malahide—This was our intended accommodation, about 5km south of Gisenyi. We had dinner here another night instead and it was so delish. The staff was super nice considering the booking miscommunication. We had a reservation but it wasn’t on their system… Instead, they offered us their higher-end property, Kivu Paradise, for the same price and included some extra transportation free of charge for it. I still would recommend this spot becuase they really did their best to make up for it and the cabins are so cute. Plus, you’d be in the village so there is no need to take motos for dinners.

Moderate— INZU Lodge— These fun tents located on a hill are a fun place to stay for those who want a camping sort of environment. There is just one unit which is a cabin.

Moderate/High-end—Kivu Paradise Resort— This is where we ended up staying. Located overlooking Lake Kivu, ask for a cabin with a lake view. The food was great and the staff was excellent in helping us organize trips. It’s as high-end as you can get in this area though for USD 120 a night, it won’t break the bank.

Day 7: Biking to a Coffee Plantation

Morning

Go on a hike or bike ride by yourself or on a tour. It’s safe to hike and bike around the villages. People (especially kids) are friendly. The kids screaming “muzungo (white person) money” started to irk me a lot but I understand I was their entertainment for the day. I’m an odd sight trying to keep my balance on the bike.

We attempted to visit the coffee plantation that we saw on Google Maps here. This is not the correct starting point for the coffee tour. I contacted the Cooprocaki email address I found on the web and never got a response.

You have to bike further to the Lake Kivu coffee washing station at the end of the road for the coffee plantation. We didn’t notify them in advance we were coming but there was someone to show Wilhelm around.

It’s a grueling 20ish km each way from Kivu Paradise and it feels mostly uphill both ways. Even Wilhelm thought it was tough. I managed to go 2km in 1 hour (for me, even that’s slow) and I just couldn’t think I would survive 40 km more. I turned around and hung out at the hotel.

At this point, make sure you keep left to continue on the trail. Keep checking google maps (download the area in advance) because you’ll be able to see if you’re going the wrong way. Most of the trails are on the map.

Wilhelm really enjoyed the coffee tour. There is a 1.5-hour tour or you can request a quick tour. Here you’ll learn about coffee, see the plants, and then roast and grind your own coffee! The tour is USD 30, cash. 

Evening

For dinner, chill at your accommodation or visit El Classico for drinks and then Paradise Malahide for dinner. El Classico had a real vibe. People were enjoying the music, having birthday parties, and just having a good time overall. While we were lounging, some boat operators came up to ask if we wanted a sunset cruise. So that’s a nice option if you’re up for it!

If you’re (a little) sick of seafood, Paradise Malahide has a great veggie stew that was a welcome change for me. In a tomato sauce, you’ll get plantains, potatoes, carrots, and more. I really enjoyed it.

Day 8: Gisenyi to Kibuye

Kibuye is a very small village with plenty of hotels and the last stop on this Rwanda itinerary. It caters to tourists and locals who want a calm and relaxing getaway. We were told that Kibuye is popular with honeymooners. It’s clear why this is the case.

Morning

Today you’ll head down Lake Kivu nearer to the islands so that you can do a full-day boat tour the next day. Either take a boat, organized by your accommodation, or head back to Gisenyi to catch a bus. The boat ride takes 3 hours and costs USD 100 per person. We were able to pay via card directly to Kivu Paradise.

Traveling by boat was super nice and relaxing; we had the whole boat to ourselves. I definitely recommend this transportation option over the buses.

Afternoon/Evening

We only reached Kibuye at 3pm so we just had lunch at Cormoran Lodge and lounged until dinner.

You could also rent a kayak or go on a sunset boat cruise. The hotels will be able to manage this for you.

Dinner was an interesting experience; we went to the nearby 5-star hotel, Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel. You need to make a dinner reservation at least 24 hours in advance, which we hadn’t. The hotel security wouldn’t let us in but after a call to reception to confirm we could enter and get a table for dinner, we were let in. The drinks are insanely expensive here at RWF 15,000 for a cocktail. We got the 4-course “surprise” chef’s tasting menu for USD 50 per person. For a tasting experience, the price was good. We had to wait almost 2 hours to get the food since we must have arrived too early for the kitchen to be operating… However, our plan was to have the sunset view here with drinks—which was very nice. This isn’t a must-do or eat activity but if you want the illusion of high-class dining in Kibuye, come here.

Accommodation suggestions

We stayed in Kibuye but I’ll also share some of the hotels we came across as we were boating around. Everything (including lodging) seems more expensive in Kibuye. This was technically our “splurge” stay in comparison to our other lodges throughout the week.

Moderate— Cormoran Lodge— Do you want to stay in a tree house on stilts overlooking the lake? Of course, you do. Be sure to book this lodge early as there are just a few cabins and it fills up—with good reason. If you don’t manage to make a booking here, you can come for lunch (as we did).

Moderate—Inn on the Lake— This was technically our second-choice hotel after Cormoran Lodge. It was very nice but had more of a clean, sleek, European vibe to the hotel than the rustic, cute style we usually go for. The hotel manager was very communicative and efficient.

High-end— Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel— With a gorgeous view over the lake, this 5-star style hotel is perfect to lounge at.

Around Kibuye

Moderate Kinunu Guest House— This guest house is on the Congo Nile Trail and is also the site of the coffee washing station. It has nice, clean rooms and a restaurant.

Moderate—Kay Sun Hotel Kivu Plage— I just saw this hotel from a distance but it looked really nice. It’s near Kinunu Guest House. Click through to the booking page on the website to get the Kivu options.

Moderate Rwiza Village—Further south, stay at this lovely modern, African-style lodge. Your boat ride will probably be longer if you stay here since it’s further south and you’ll need to get to Kibuye for the bus back to Kigali.

Day 9: Lake Kivu Boat Ride

Morning

Prepare for a day of adventure on Lake Kivu!

One of the best things to do on Lake Kivu is a full-day boat cruise. Do you need a full day? Yes. There are a lot of little islands, and you won’t even have time to see them all. I used Countryside Tours Rwanda from Trip Advisor to help organize my tour. Each island is different. With a guide, you’ll be able to visit each one. Plan for 6 hours or more and start your day at 9am. We started the tour at 10 but would have done better starting at 9am. WhatsApp Countryside Tours Rwanda at +250 790 009 064.

Add on the coffee tour experience at Kinunu Guest House. This is a 1.5-hour tour and tasting of the cooperative owned by a retired senator who wanted to bring jobs into his community. As such, much of the work that theoretically could be done by machines is done by hand.

Evening

We managed to squeeze in a quick kayak ride before dinner for USD 30 for the hour, organized by the hotel.

Day 10: Kigali and fly back home

You’re at the end of the Rwanda Itinerary!

Today you’ll head back to Kigali to catch your flight home.

The bus ride will take almost 4 hours. Go to Karongi bus park station. You will probably have to arrange a moto with your accommodation if you’re not in town. We used RITCO again and the ride was RWF 2780 per person, cash only.

We had an evening flight, so we left around 10am and reached around 3pm. Once again, we got lucky and the bus arrived within 10 minutes of our arrival, at the station. Start at RITCO to ask when the next bus is. If it’s not soon, ask around other bus companies to see what’s leaving next.

In between waiting for our flight, we visited the area around Now Now Rolex again because there are several cafes and shops. We also went back to Kigali Pottery Collections to purchase some items we didn’t want to carry around with us all week.

Then, we went to Borneo for dinner. Our taxi from Borneo to the airport was RWF 20,000.

Check out what to do in Kigali for other suggestions on what to do before your flight leaves.

Extend your Rwanda Itinerary

Do you have time for a longer Rwanda itinerary? Consider some of these ideas:

Kigali

  • There are so many more cute hotels, restaurants, and shops to visit. Spend another day exploring the city. See the post on what to do in Kigali to get more ideas for your Rwanda itinerary.

Musanze

Got any comments about my Rwanda Itinerary? Let me know in the comments!