Drakensberg Hiking Guide: Monks Cowl
Drakensberg hiking is an adventure like no other! It’s easy to reach from Joburg or Durba. Monk’s Cowl is one of the most popular trails, but you’ll have time to explore others like the Sphinx and Nandi Falls too. I loved the intense mountain views and refreshing natural pools during the hike. There is plenty to do around the area to make the Drakensberg a perfect long weekend getaway.
Getting to Drakensberg
Rent a car from Johannesburg or Durban to get to Monk’s Cowl. There were no notable buses or taxis in the area that I saw and you’ll want to be in control of your own time while you’re there. You won’t need a 4×4 so I’d opt for a small sedan like the Honda Amaze (one of the cheaper automatic car options). There are some potholes but just drive slowly and keep your eyes on the road.
Give yourself enough time to drive in daylight. I don’t recommend driving around the country in the dark mostly because it is SO dark due to little to no street lights and the abundance of potholes.
Monk’s Cowl Hiking
The best hikes in the area are from Monk’s Cowl and there are trails from 2km to 15+km (including overnight options) so you won’t get bored even if you go there to hike each day. Most of the trails connect in different loops so you’ll always have an easy way back to the car park if you get tired.
There is secure parking and the entrance fee is R 45 per person (no discounts for multiple-day entry). Buy your entrance ticket at the visitor’s hut then start on the trail after you complete a hiking form to confirm your departure time (and then again your arrival time). Bring enough cash to cover your entrance fee in case the card machine doesn’t work at Monk’s Cowl.
You can take a picture of the trail map, or buy the guidebook for R10. Opt for this as it provides some background and details on the trial.
You may want to bring a packable rain jacket as the rains were on and off throughout our hike and don’t forget your swimsuit for the natural pools.
The Sphinx Trail
This trail is an out-and-back hike (felt like it was straight up the mountain) to a large rock that looks like it could be a sphinx head. The views are worth it! 3/4ths of the way to the sphinx, there is a small waterfall. The trail guide suggests you refill your water bottle here. I drank directly from the falls—and no stomach issues to report. The trail continues onto Breakfast Stream and Blind Man’s Corner.
Nandi Falls Trail
Take this trail (7km on the map) to Nandi Falls, or add in the Hlathikulu Neck Forest Trail back to the car park. While on the way to Nandi Falls, stop at the sets of natural pools for a dip! At a couple of different points during the hike, you’ll have to cross the Mpofane River—sometimes there were rocks jutting out just enough to cross but once while connecting between Nandi and Hlathikulu, I was convinced I was going to fall in if I tried jumping from rock to rock and so I just took off my shoes and wadded in. And again when connecting from Hlathikulu back to the car park.
Things to see and do
Check out the world-famous Drakensberg Boys Choir. In March 2021, they started doing two shows a week (Wednesday and Friday at 6:30 PM) to accommodate more guests during in-person event restrictions. The auditorium seats 300, but there were less than 40 when I went: space between parties and masks are required. You may want to plan to eat at your abode (or have an early dinner) as all the restaurants will be closed by the time the concert is over at 8:15 PM.
If you wander to Drakensberg Brewery or Drakensberg Chocolate memories, check out Farm Friends, a cute home goods store with local knickknacks, honey, sauces, and a little bit of everything else for sale.
Where to stay for Drakensberg Hiking
There are many Airbnb options but private hotels/lodges seem to be the most common in the area. I was really happy with our self-catering Airbnb at the Inkunzi Cave. The property has three accommodation options (the cave, the hut, and the Diddley Squat). When we stayed at the cave, there was a mama swallow flying in and out of the house; we had to let her out each morning! We thought it was very cute but you may want to check on the season with the hosts if you’re afraid of birds (like two of best friends…).
Where to Eat around Drakensberg
Breakfast/Lunch
Head to Valley Bakery to pick up fresh bread and rolls for breakfast or dine in with the insta-worthy outdoor seating options (including a pagoda). Come early if you want the full range of goods. By the time we arrived around 9 am, the croissants were all gone! There is also an eye-catching display of quiches and sweets at the checkout counter.
Champagne Bistro Café: good selection of breakfast and lunch options, but it may not be the best option for veg-seekers. It’s in the same air-strip area as Drakensberg Brewery and Drakensberg Chocolate Memories.
Aweh Ma Ady’s was renamed to Mac’s Cafe: the most eclectic restaurant in the area. Aweh Ma Ady’s has a great selection of breakfast and lunch options for veg seekers. January 2022 Update: There is new management and a new menu but the food is just as good!
Lunch/Dinner
The Farmer’s Fork Restaurant and Tapas Bar: This used to be a cool spot called Chef’s Junction, but when Wilhelm visited in Jan 2022, it had been replaced by The Farmer’s Fork. He and his parents enjoyed their meal here.
Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort Restaurant & Pub: There are only a few veggie options on the menu but it is open later than most other restaurants in the area. The restaurant is right on the small lake with some nice evening views complete with bistro lights when the sun goes down.
Thokozisa Restaurant/Deli: There is a restaurant and several shops in this tourist information complex—it reminds me of a typical tourist bus stop.
Other Options
Drakensberg Brewery has a tasting selection of their 4 beers and a rotating list of specials. There is more vino than beer on the menu. It’s a fun atmosphere and is across from the airstrip with Champagne Bistro Cafe and Drakensberg Chocolate Memories.
Drakensberg Chocolate Memories: stop here for a tea (served with chili oil!) and brownie, hot or iced chocolate, or fondue. You can also pick up a block of their chocolate after a free tasting.
Groceries
Macedonia Cheese Shop: pick up a cheese sampler packet. The cheese shop uses a traditional Macedonian cheese method.
Cedarwood Supermarket: The supermarket is no Woolworths or Checkers. There is a small fridge section with some vegetables (tomatoes, cucumber, and mushrooms) but nothing to truly make a veggie-licious meal (which obviously rhymes with “Fergalicious”).
The Oaks: Selections of basic groceries, gifts, and crafts.
Food Tips
Rather than rely on the restaurants and shops, prepare to bring some of your own groceries for breakfast veggies if you’re planning an early hike or lunch additions for your hike’s picnic. Perhaps think about some braai veggies and meat alternatives.
Many of the restaurants within a 20-minute drive close between 4-6 PM. Some restaurants inside hotels are open but it’s not the most exciting food. There are two grocery shops around the area but fresh produce is very limited for veggie seekers.
Be sure to check Facebook, Google Maps, and any websites for hours and opening days. It’s not consistent across the different restaurants.
Bonus: Heading back to Joburg?
Stop at Maharaj’s Van Reenen Curries, 1.5 hours into your journey back. Google Maps says the restaurant is further than it is—you’ll have to turn into the gas station/rest stop complex and then you’ll see the signs. Opt for the bean bunny chow and vetkoek veg curry dish with masala chai. It’s a popular rest stop on the way to Durban and a “hidden gem” of a spot.
