Amazon Canoe Adventure: Piranhas, Storms, and a Wild Ride to Tahuayo Lodge
When writing about my Amazon Rainforest Tour experience, I started rambling about our Amazon canoe adventure and what happened to Wilhelm and me when our canoe left the dock in Iquitos, heading up the Amazon River… and then I stopped. My chaotic story was getting far too long to include in a blog post about planning activities for an Amazon adventure. However, this fish-slapping, canoe 4×4 adventure might amuse you (and maybe even convince you to go). So, instead, here it is.
After seven days of exploring Lima, Cusco, Ollantaytambo, and Machu Picchu (read my guide for all those adventures here), we were ready to continue to Iquitos for the second half of our Peru trip.
Airport Drama in Lima
Our day had already started a little crazy because we flew from Cusco to Lima for our transfer to Iquitos. In the Lima airport, we had to exit the airport and go back through security and immigration.
We only had a 45-minute layover, which was definitely not enough time to re-enter security and get through immigration. It made us super nervous, so I was running ahead through security. The only way we made it to the gate on time was that we skipped the security line by going through the crew entrance. I kept saying, “Our flight is leaving, our flight is leaving.” This ended up being fine, and I recommend it if this happens to you. Anyway, it was just a weird, stressful experience. We also got on the plane, and everything was fine. We were feeling really excited!
Setting off on our Amazon Canoe Adventure
When we arrived in Iquitos, our guide from Amazonia Expeditions was waiting for us at the airport exit. Along with others starting their tour, we were transferred to the Amazonian Expedition Headquarters office. This is where we would start our Amazon canoe adventure to Tahuayo Lodge for our six-day stay.
Once at headquarters, we waited a bit while they completed our documentation for the National Park entrance fees. Luckily, there was a cute cat to keep me occupied.
Then, we started the Amazon canoe adventure around 2:30pm. Because it was the dry season at the end of August, we were warned that the boat ride, typically two to three hours, would take longer than in the wet season. In the dry season the boats have to navigate through roots and branches sticking out from the Amazon’s riverbed (and its tributaries, which we were traveling). We were expecting a delay, but not as significant as what we experienced.
An Unexpected Storm
We got on the boat at 2:30 and all seemed well.
However, as we were leaving the docking area, we saw a cloud of dust and rain approaching from over the Amazon River.
A wind and rainstorm came out of nowhere, and our boat immediately got stuck for over an hour. The winds were wild!
I swear I thought the boat was going to tip at one point. We actually saw a smaller boat go upside down in the intense winds. Other boats were stuck as well.
Several guides had to get out of the boat and push us away from getting stuck in the sand. If that happened, they were prepared to send another boat, to which we’d have to transfer in the middle of the Amazon River.
Finally, the winds died down and another boat arrived with more guides to help push us out of the shallow water. At that point, the engine stopped working and the guides had to spend time fixing it before we were on our way again.
With the engine came back to life, we continued our journey.
Travels on the Tahuayo River
It was a slow journey up the Tahuayo River, one of the tributaries of the Amazon along which the lodge is located. As we went further into the jungle, the water level kept dropping. Our boat was hitting tree branches, roots, and stumps. The best way to describe the ride is like a canoe version of a 4×4 jeep trail. Except the canoe captain can’t see what’s coming!
Our boat would be going relatively fast and then all of a sudden we’d hear a clunk and start to sway back and forth. Or we’d be going slowly and then get stuck between two branches which the guides had to pry us out of. I was getting pretty anxious and felt like we would likely end up tipping over before we reached the lodge. And, I was feeling really stupid because I had brought dry bags for my electronics but failed to put them in.
We passed by trees that had been stuck by lightning and were burning (apparently this is common). And saw boats with provisions heading up and down the river.
Slapped by a Fish
About halfway to the lodge, in Esperanza Village, we needed to switch canoes. The larger canoe’s engine was too long to handle the low water levels, so we transferred to two smaller canoes, with groups of four to five people per canoe.
Here, things got wild. It was pitch dark except for the guide’s headlamp as we made our way for the last hour or so…
In the beginning, the ride was eerie but peaceful. And then, out of nowhere, a piranha jumped out of the water and slapped my face before flopping around in the boat. It was so scary, and its teeth were insane.
I managed to use a seat cover to stop it from moving.
The guides were so preoccupied with keeping the boat going that it took them several minutes to help with the fish. Then, literally one minute later, another fish came and hit the back of my head. Luckily, this one wasn’t as menacing looking and the guides were already tackling the piranha, so I didn’t get a picture because they threw the fish out quickly.
Luckily this fish drama never happened again (even though we went on two other night canoe rides).
Finally, after what felt like forever because I was holding my breath, we arrived at Tahuayo Lodge. Phew.
You can read all about our 6-Day Amazon adventure with Amazonia Expeditions to plan your own trip!
